Archive for March, 2014

Costume Design from the Luigi Chiarini Library

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europeana fashion Bozzetto di Adriana Berselli Adventurese associate partner biblioteca library luigi chiarini

The Luigi Chiarini Library is the fourth of our new associate partners. The Library, devoted to collecting materials around cinematogrophy, has a special collection dedicated to fashion and costumes.

europeana fashion Bozzetto di Adriana Berselli Adventurese associate partner biblioteca library luigi chiarini

Bozzetto di Adriana Berselli, The Adventurers, 1970

The Fashion and Costume collection contains over a 1.000 bibliographical documents. Initially, the collection was mainly used by students of the National Cinema School , but over the years costume designers have also found their way to the collection.

Bozzetti di Marisa D'Andrea Da pidi un secolo abito da spiaggia_ Palazzo Besana, Milano 1988 europeana fashion associate partner luigi chiarini library biblioteca

Bozzetti di Marisa D'Andrea. Da più di un secolo abito da spiaggia, Palazzo Besana, Milano, 1988

To Europeana Fashion, the Library will be contributing illustrations of costume design from rare books and fashion magazines dating back to the 1800s. The illustrations cover everything  from character costume design to the final tailoring choices. They are often accompanied by fabric swatches and detailed notes on hairstyles and accessoires.

Bozzetti di Marisa D'Andrea La vita leggendaria di Ernest Hemingway 1988 europeana fashion associate partner luigi chiarini biblioteca library

Bozzetti di Marisa D'Andrea. La vita leggendaria di Ernest Hemingway, 1988

Some of these wonderful illustrations are on the Library’s own website in its “Display of Fashion and Costumes” section. The Library will also curate our Europeana Fashion Tumblr this Winter and of course this wonderful collection will soon be available in our portal.

 

Italian cinema and theatre costume to come to Europeana Fashion

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Theatre and cinema costume have now entered the Europeana Fashion network through the Cerratelli Foundation! Our latest associate partner preserves over 25.000 stage costumes from Italian cinema and theatre.

fondazione cerratelli foundation europeana fashion associate partner stage theatre costume

© Fondazione Cerratelli

The collection of the Cerratelli Foundation comes from de Casa d’Arte Cerratelli. The award-winning costume designers of this Florentine House made costumes for Italian cinema and theatre from 1933 until 1995. Their work is emblematic for Florentine craftmanship and tailoring.

fondazione cerratelli foundation europeana fashion associate partner stage theatre costume

© Fondazione Cerratelli

Now, the Foundation is committed to preserving, researching and exhibiting this work. This commitment has led to a catalogue of the collection as well as several publications. Currently, the Foundation is showing part its collection in the exhibition Le Donne di Verdi. Costumi di Scena della Eroine Verdiane until 4 May 2014.

fondazione cerratelli foundation europeana fashion associate partner stage theatre costume

Fine feathers make fine birds

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MoMu Fan

This month will see the opening of the exhibition Birds of Paradise. Plumes & Feathers in Fashion at MoMu in Antwerp. For the occassion, the curatorial team is feathering up our Tumblr and Pinterest nest with images from its research for the exhibition.

europeana fashion momu birds of paradise feathers alexander mcqueen etienne tordoir catwalkpictures

Alexander McQueen, S/S ‘11. © Etienne Tordoir/CatwalkPictures - See more at: http://europeanafashion.tumblr.com/post/79444231075/alexander-mcqueen-s-s-11-c-etienne#sthash.wYwaXU23.dpuf

Feathers and fashion have always had a love affair. Throughout centuries the application of feathers has rendered fashion and haute couture with an extraordinary level of refinement and elegance.

Just think of the femininity, luxury and wealth of the ostrich and marabou feathers on ladies’ hats in the time of the the belle époque (1871-1914). The immense popularity of feathers during the period led to the near-extinction of certain birds.

societe des journaux europeana fashion momu tumblr pinterest curation feathers momu birds of paradise

Société des Journaux de Mode Réunis. Collection MoMu - Fashion Museum Province Antwerp.

The roaring twenties signified the true heyday of feathers. Flapper girls donned feathers on their hats, boas and dresses. Their feathers swayed as they danced to the beat of the charleston.

But there is a heavier side to the lightness of feathers too. There is a sense of dark romance and loss of innocence to feathers, probably best exemplified by contemporary fashion designers such as Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester.

europeana fashion momu feathers birds of paradise fan online curation

Fan with leaf in pheasant feathers and frame in nacre, 1890–1910, MoMu collection, inv. no. T13/1536/W15. © MoMu. Photo by Stephen Mattues

 

The curation by MoMu explores themes of feathers in fashion through fashion photography, objects and illustrations. You can view the exhibition on our Tumblr and Pinterest.

Find out more about Birds of Paradise. Plumes & Feathers in Fashion exhibition.

Europeana Fashion Conference in London, 9 April

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Missoni mirroed

On 9 April the second International Europeana Fashion Conference will take place at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (V&A).  The conference examines the fascinating intersection of fashion archives and the digital world.

missoni caleidoscopio gorizia europeana fashion conference london victoria and albert museum april 2014

2006 Caleidoscopio Gorizia - Archivio Missoni © Missoni S.p.A

In the light of the V&A’s latest exhibition “The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014”, the conference approaches the theme “Made in Italy: re-use of fashion heritage and new digital perspectives” from the view of Italian fashion houses, museums and archives.

These institutions do not only guard brands’ cultures and histories, they play an active role in the creativity and production of these brands. Nowadays managing heritage does not mean to just look back at the past,  but instead to make the values from the past relevant in contemporary contexts. The materials kept in archives inspire future collections, are used  in marketing campaigns and form the heart of exhibitions and fashion film.

Now that archives are starting to show their materials on the Internet, more and more people can discover and re-use these materials. This opening up of archives to a large audience combined with the power of archives to inspire new forms of fashion culture is the topic of  this conference.

Speakers include Jane Reeve, CEO of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, and Luca Missoni, Creative Director at Missoni as well as noted fashion historians such as Amandia Triossi from the Bulgari Heritage Collection.

The conference is the second in a series of three annual international conferences organised by Europeana Fashion that explores the relationship between the fashion industry, the digital world and the Internet.

Click here to register.
The conference has sold out.
Click here to see the full conference programme.

Wed 9 April 2014 10:30-17:30
Victoria and Albert Museum
The Lydia & Manfred Gorvy Lecture Theatre, London

Click here to view the press release. 

 

 

Pucci’s Palio Collection

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pucci palio

Our new image of the month is an exquisite silhouette from Emilio Pucci’s 1957 Palio Collection. This collection was inspired by the biannual horse race held in Siena and took form in prints infused with aspects of glamourous Italian life.

palio emilio pucci archivio europeana fashion dress siena contrada

Palio Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Archivio Emilio Pucci © Emilio Pucci.

The cotton dress above is one of the highlights of Palio Collection. The colours and patterns represent the coat of arms of each “Contrade” (district) of Siena: “Civetta”, “Lupa”, “Montone”, “Chiocciola”, “Giraffa”, “Torre”, “Bruco” and “Oca”.

These coats of arms were to be found in the costumes and flags of each district, but Emilio Pucci reworked the prints  into scarves, shirts, trousers and dresses. Each print was an intricate combination of up to ten different colors. The prints were prominent in his 1950s designs and earned Pucci the Neiman Marcus award in 1957.

You can find many objects related to Pucci’s Palio collection in the portal. Click on the images below to see them in the portal.

europeana fashion emilio pucci archive archivio palio dress siena

Palio Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Archivio Emilio Pucci © Emilio Pucci.

europeana fashion emilio pucci archive archivio palio dress siena

Palio Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Archivio Emilio Pucci © Emilio Pucci.

 

europeana fashion emilio pucci archive archivio palio dress siena sketch

Palio Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Archivio Emilio Pucci © Emilio Pucci.

europeana fashion emilio pucci archive archivio palio dress siena

Palio Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Archivio Emilio Pucci © Emilio Pucci.

Jewish Dress and Jewellery in Europeana Fashion

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israel museum jerusalem europeana fashion women's coat uzbekistan

We are excited to welcome the Israel Museum in Jerusalem (IMJ) as a new associate partner in Europeana Fashion. The IMJ is adding some exceptional Jewish dress and jewellery items to the Europeana Fashion portal.

israel museum jerusalem europeana fashion women's coat uzbekistan

Woman’s Coat with a richly decorated lining. Bukhara, Uzbekistan, late 19th century. Collection Israel Museum, Jerusalem.

The stories told by these diverse items travel across time and space. Their histories trace them back around the world, from India to Tunis, from New York to Baghdad and from the Middle Ages to today. Together they make up one of the richest collections of Jewish dress and jewellery in the world.

Baghdadi Indian Israel Museum Jerusalem Europeana Fashion

Woman’s outfit Baghdadi Jews, Calcutta, India, late 19th century. Gift of Ramah Yehuda, London. Collection Israel Museum, Jerusalem

Items in the collection have been gathered over the past five decades from Jewish communities worldwide. They include dresses, suits, wedding outfits, undergarments, and children’s clothing from both secular and religious Jewish culture.

It will be easy to find IMJ’s items  in the portal as the museum has also contributed fashion terms in Hebrew. That means you can search the entire portal with Hebrew terms and that you can use search terms specific for Jewish dress.

wedding dress israel museum jerusalem europeana fashion

Wedding Dress. Edirne, Turkey, early 20th century. Gift of Evelyne Mayorkas Hertzig, Dinah Mayorkas Pichot, Jacques Mayorkas, France, Alberte Mayorkas Wadler, New York, in memory of their mother Colombe Papo. Collection Israel Museum, Jerusalem

IMJ’s collection of nearly 500,000 objects  has been built over the past 45 years thanks to the generous support and legacy of gifts by its worldwide patrons. It is now the largest cultural institution in the State of Israel and is ranked among the world’s leading art and archaeology museums.

Read more about the upcoming exhibition at IMJ Dress Codes: Revealing the Jewish Wardrobe  and follow IMJ on Facebook and Twitter.